Archive for the ‘Travel’ Category

Visitors!

Wednesday, April 21st, 2010

Our friends Anna and Naresh arrived in La Paz on Monday, April 12, bringing goodies from home, and the sweetest delivery of all: Sequoia! In short order we’d eaten at Rancho Viejo, Koiya had a swim on the Mogote, we saw dolphins, and we hit La Fuente for ice cream, knocking four big items off Sequoia’s To-Do list.

Naresh has a tendency to fall asleep at 9pm no matter where he is: on our couch, at the movies, during parties. This has earned him the nickname “Pumpkin”, because he turns into one. Luckily, 9pm is known as “Cruiser’s Midnight” down here, so we knew he’d be fine as long as we gave him a comfy place to nap. But we were a bit worried about how Anna would fare on the boat, as there is a Lil Pumpkin on the way!

Despite a bit of sea-sickness on our first day out, Anna was a real trooper and took to sailing gracefully. Not so graceful is her diving; when we took an evening swim at Playa Bonanza, she did a full-on belly flop from about 4 feet off the water. This had the odd effect of turning Todd and Naresh into Mother Hens, who flapped about the decks clucking “The baby! The baby!” Anna turned to me and just rolled her eyes. “As soon as you’re pregnant, no one cares if you’re hurt, it’s just all about the baby,” she sighed. I told her to quit whining and get out of the water before Lil Pumpkin got chilled. (more…)

Back in Baja

Sunday, April 11th, 2010

We spent a fantastic week in Bahia Concepcion. It was great to be back out at anchor, where our daily schedule was something like: eat, read, drink a beer, sleep, repeat. For a little variety, we occasionally took a swim, or drank a margarita.

We also met Geary at his palapa in Playa El Burro. Geary gives a weather report every morning on the Sonrisa HAM net, and has the perfect radio voice. He’s also a really nice guy, and we had a couple of pleasant evenings chatting out on his porch.

Our birthdays were made special by morning soaks in the natural hot springs. The tide was a bit too low for the makeshift tubs that others had built, so we built our own little tub that mixed the scalding spring water with sea water to achieve an agreeable temperature.

Another great birthday treat: a full moon! What a pleasure to put on some music, mix a margarita, and sit out on deck to watch the sun set, then turn around and watch the moon rise. (more…)

Ballenas!

Friday, March 26th, 2010

On Sunday, March 21, we took the bus to Guerrero Negro, to take a whale watching tour in the Ojo de Liebre lagoon. This lagoon hosts more gray whales than any other, so we were willing to brave the 3 hour+ bus ride.

It was pretty stressful getting there. We went to the station at 6:15am to catch the 6:25 bus, only to find that the 6:25 bus actually left at 5:25. Luckily there was a 7:15 bus that, given our guess that the trip would take 3 hours, we hoped would get us to Guerrero Negro in plenty of time for our 11am tour. And we were doing great time… but when we got to Vizcaino, the bus driver announced we were stopping for 40 minutes to get breakfast. Then that 40 minutes turned into over an hour…

Luckily we made it, and within minutes we’d paid for the tour and were on the mini-bus out to the lagoon. On the way, the guide told us more about Guerrero Negro, and we learned that 25% of the world’s salt is produced there. Some of it becomes table salt, most is shipped to Japan where it’s used in everything from cosmetics to fabric softener, and some is used to de-ice the roads in the US. We saw a barge being loaded with salt from a pile hundreds of feet high- amazing! (more…)

Back Out There!

Saturday, March 20th, 2010

Well, it took us a month, but we finally got all our projects done and left San Carlos on St. Patrick’s Day! We had a great overnight crossing. Despite the light winds, we managed to sail about 3/4s of the way, so we were happy with it.

As we got underway, we discussed our watch schedule and the course we’d take. “Does this course have us going north or south of that island?” I asked. “What island?” responded Capn GPS Navigation. “Um, the one right in between us and Santa Rosalia, that is probably impossible to see on a moonless night?” I replied. “An unlit island in the middle of the Sea? What are the odds?” said Toro, heading below to check the chart. (Note to selves: Check the friggin’ paper chart!) (more…)

I’ll Drink to That!

Monday, March 15th, 2010

Our friend Ross lost over 40 pounds last year. He blogged about his formula for weight loss: Eat Less, Work Out. (I have since been trying out a corollary- Work Less, Eat Out- with limited success. Total failure, actually.)

The last five afternoons, the wind has been so strong in the anchorage that we’ve had to stay on the boat, in case the anchor drags. Late one afternoon, having finished a book and a crossword puzzle, not to mention countless games of Boggle on Toro’s iPod Touch, I was ready for a little physical exercise. I thought Capn Built-In Swim Ring might want to join me.

“Wanna work out?” I asked.
“Chuh!” scoffed Toro, taking another swig of tequila. “I’ve hardly eaten anything today. I don’t need to work out!”
“You just gonna drink yourself skinny?” I replied, trying to point out the empty calories in his plastic mug.
“That’s right!” he boasted, slamming the mug down. “I’m drinking myself skinny!”

Well, he’s certainly come to the right place- or rather, chosen the right lifestyle- to do just that. There are far too many reasons to drink when you’re cruising: you’re getting together with other cruisers, it’s hot, it’s cocktail hour, the sun’s going down, your boat has problems so you need consolation, you fixed your boat’s problems so you need to celebrate….

Sometimes you drink because you want to send an email (because some restaurants/bars offer free internet), and you have to order something before you can whip out your laptop. When we first got to San Carlos, we went to two different bars, trying to get online, and both places were having connection problems. Toro was exasperated, and uttered one of those instantly classic quotes: “How many beers do I have to drink to get an internet connection?!”

I try to remind him that this is one of those problems that is good to have. Kinda like being stuck on your boat all afternoon because it’s too windy to leave her.

We’ve got the new windlass all wired. As soon as we get a good weather window, we’ll be leaving for Santa Rosalia. It’s about 75 nautical miles away (a short overnight sail), on the Baja side.

Check out how great our brightwork looks (if I do say so myself!):

And while I’m bragging, I just have to add… Ladies (and some of you men), eat your hearts out! This man is all mine!

Hassle Free Zone

Monday, February 22nd, 2010

We had a lot on our minds when we left Sacramento on Weds, Feb 10. Our most immediate concern was whether our car’s transmission would fail; the fluid had contained metal shards which apparently is not ideal. Plus, we were carrying a ton of stuff- mostly clothes, books, and the like, but also bottom paint and a new electric windlass, and we hoped not to be searched by customs. In the back of our minds we worried about the condition of our boat and her batteries. And to top it all off, this year Sequoia has decided to take up “rock star cruising” (she’ll let her crew move the boat to desirable locales, and just fly in here and there for a week of fun). Knowing we wouldn’t see her until April made us so sad!

Despite a certain snobby tenant of ours (Omar) scoffing at our road trip itinerary, we were excited to stop in Bakersfield and Tucson on the way down. Our friend Adam has a huge, cool apartment in an older Bakersfield neighborhood close to downtown. It was great to walk to the new Padre Hotel for a drink and dinner, and catch up with Adam’s fascinating work and romantic life!

Though it’s about 600 miles from Bakersfield to Tucson, the drive was uneventful and there are definitely worse ways to spend a day than blasting through the desert at 75 mph. There was no room at our usual B&B, but luckily we found a great little cottage on craigslist, and the two-night minimum suited us fine. That way, we had a day for relaxing and last minute shopping, and two opportunities to indulge in what really draws us to Tucson: Magpie’s Pizza! (more…)

Nail Biting

Saturday, September 5th, 2009

Yesterday we got a comment from Marcus, ex-Restless, former owner of Sugata. “Have you heard how she fared in the tropical storm?” About the same time we got an email from Lisa of Beyond Reason. “Have you guys heard anything?!”

Turns out, while the winds were not substantial, an unprecedented amount of rain fell on San Carlos, resulting in massive flooding and washed-out roads. And Marina Seca, where Sugata is on the hard (or maybe, on the soggy) is basically ground zero!!! (more…)

Going Back To Cali

Sunday, July 19th, 2009

Days in the work yard were not as bad as we’d expected. Sure, it was hot, but there was a breeze. In the evenings, though, the mosquitos came out, so we had to cover our hatch with netting. Unfortunately the netting we had was for no-see-ums, which are tiny. The net stopped the mosquitos, but it stopped the breeze too! We survived by putting wet washcloths on ourselves, and sleeping under fans.

We planned to get an early start to beat the heat on our drive from San Carlos to Tucson, but with last-minute details and our farewell breakfast of huevos a la mexicana, it was 10am when we hit the freeway. After just a few minutes on the road, our air conditioner gave out. We’d had problems with it occasionally blowing a fuse, so we’d stocked up on fuses, and just popped a new one in every once in a while. Well, after pulling over twice (having blown 3 fuses in a row), it became apparent that our solution was no longer cutting it.

We decided to stop in Hermosillo (about an hour from San Carlos) to look for a garage. As the temperature crept up in the car, we sat in silence, contemplating the misery that lay ahead of us. I checked the clock; 10:24. An eternity later, I checked it again; 10:28. The drive to Hermosillo turned out to be one of the longest of our lives! But happily, the Pemex guys directed us to a garage, where the mechanics quickly diagnosed a short. They had to pull the alternator to get to it, so it took a couple of hours. Final cost: $22! We were on our way with A/C baby! (more…)

Crossing the Sea and Hauling Out

Saturday, July 4th, 2009

As North winds were in the forecast, we decided to stay another day at Agua Verde. We talked to a couple of boats via the VHF, and though one was Northbound and the other Southbound, both reported wind “right on the nose”! We scratched our heads a bit at this, but then again, we’ve often suspected that winds in the Sea of Cortez have a magical “noserly” component!

So the next day, despite our 3.2 knot average, we were pleased to be able to sail most of the way to Bahia Salinas on Isla Carmen. With such light winds, there were no seas to speak of, so en route I used my solar oven to bake a huge chocolate chip cookie. All the while I chanted the tongue-twister that Koiya made up for such occasions: “Slowly solar cooking Susan’s solar cookies!”

The Sea is teeming with life here (near Loreto), and we saw countless mantas jump and flip themselves. We also watched a humpback whale surfacing and diving nearby, and suddenly, it exploded into the air in a full breach! The sun sparkled off its grooved white belly and long flippers, and it hung in the air for an impossibly long moment. We both cried out “Whoa!”, but our voices were drowned out by the whale’s splash. Amazing! (This isn’t our photo, but it gives you an idea of what we saw. “Our whale” went more vertical than this!) (more…)

It’s Gettin’ Hot in Here

Thursday, June 25th, 2009

We left La Paz for the last time this season on Saturday, June 6. As the coromuel winds blow pretty reliably from the Southwest at night, we decided to make an overnight passage up to Isla San Francisco with our buddies on Theophilus. At first, it seemed we had picked the one night that the coromuel wouldn’t blow, but it finally filled in around 10pm.

When I came on watch at midnight, Capn Micro Manage told me, “We’re a couple miles off of it, but watch out for that island.” I looked in the direction he indicated; to hit the island, I’d have to turn us 90 degrees and continue for half an hour on that course. Does he think I’m a complete moron? Perhaps I’d get bored and start playing “Spin the Helm” to entertain myself? I’d have to be an idiot to hit that island (no offense, Ron!). Luckily it was dark and Toro couldn’t see me roll my eyes. “I’ll do my bestest, Capn,” I responded with a mock salute. Despite my incompetence, we somehow made it to Isla San Francisco the next morning.

I had wanted to do a long hike over to the North side of the island, but though we got an early start, it was quickly apparent that it was too hot even for gringos to be out walking. I always imagine that Mexicans think we’re crazy to go hiking at all, and once it’s June, I have to agree. So, we decided for a shorter hike and a swim instead. That night, Toro and I began sleeping in the cockpit because it was too warm in our berth. (more…)